Recovery and protection of photo-damaged hairs with keratin-encapsulated cationic liposomes

초록

ObjectiveDaily sunlight exposure impacts the structural integrity and chemical composition of hair in both reversible and permanent manners. Although keratin-based treatments have been popularly used to repair damaged hair, their effects in the recovery of the hair damage caused by UV light have not been well studied. Moreover, limitations related to keratin penetration depth and duration of effect persist. Encapsulating active ingredients in liposomes has been shown to enhance their stability, bioavailability and permeability. Thus, we aimed to design cationic liposomes encapsulated with keratin to enhance the recovery effects of photo-damaged hair.MethodsWe prepared keratin-incorporated cationic liposomes (KLs) via high-pressure homogenization and assessed their physical properties via hydrodynamic size, zeta potential, electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction analyses. The physical and chemical damage level of hair samples before and after treatment, such as hair smoothness, protein degradation and lipid peroxidation, were subsequently investigated using electron microscopy and different spectroscopies.ResultsThe results indicated that the cationic liposomes fabricated by high-pressure homogenization method had combined unilamellar and multilamellar structures. Compared with the keratin solution, the KL suspension significantly improved the permeation of keratin into the cortex during a 24-h incubation. Moreover, 24 and 48-h UV-exposed hairs showed enhanced recovery when incubated with keratin liposomes for 24 h, as evidenced by the observation of a smoother hair surface using electron microscopy. We observed that treatment with keratin liposomes significantly reduced protein denaturation and lipid peroxidation in the photo-damaged hairs.ConclusionWe anticipate that cationic liposome-assisted keratin delivery may serve as an effective method for restoring photo-damaged hair in both the physical and chemical dimensions. ObjectifL'exposition quotidienne au soleil a un impact sur l'int & eacute;grit & eacute; structurelle et la composition chimique des cheveux, de mani & egrave;re r & eacute;versible ou permanente. Bien que les traitements & agrave; base de k & eacute;ratine aient & eacute;t & eacute; largement utilis & eacute;s pour r & eacute;parer les cheveux ab & icirc;m & eacute;s, leurs effets sur la r & eacute;paration des dommages caus & eacute;s par la lumi & egrave;re UV n'ont pas & eacute;t & eacute; bien & eacute;tudi & eacute;s. En outre, les limitations li & eacute;es & agrave; la profondeur de p & eacute;n & eacute;tration de la k & eacute;ratine et & agrave; la dur & eacute;e de l'effet persistent. Il a & eacute;t & eacute; d & eacute;montr & eacute; que l'encapsulation de principes actifs dans les liposomes am & eacute;liore leur stabilit & eacute;, leur biodisponibilit & eacute; et leur perm & eacute;abilit & eacute;. Ainsi, nous avons cherch & eacute; & agrave; concevoir des liposomes cationiques encapsul & eacute;s dans de la k & eacute;ratine pour am & eacute;liorer les effets de r & eacute;cup & eacute;ration des cheveux photo-endommag & eacute;s.M & eacute;thodesNous avons pr & eacute;par & eacute; des liposomes cationiques incorpor & eacute;s & agrave; la k & eacute;ratine (KL) par homog & eacute;n & eacute;isation & agrave; haute pression et & eacute;valu & eacute; leurs propri & eacute;t & eacute;s physiques par l'analyse de la taille hydrodynamique, du potentiel z & ecirc;ta, de la microscopie & eacute;lectronique et de la diffraction des rayons X. Le niveau de dommages physiques et chimiques des & eacute;chantillons de cheveux avant et apr & egrave;s le traitement, tels que la douceur des cheveux, la d & eacute;gradation des prot & eacute;ines et la peroxydation lipidique, a ensuite & eacute;t & eacute; & eacute;tudi & eacute; & agrave; l'aide de microscopie & eacute;lectronique et de diff & eacute;rentes spectroscopies.R & eacute;sultatsLes r & eacute;sultats indiquent que les liposomes cationiques fabriqu & eacute;s par la m & eacute;thode d'homog & eacute;n & eacute;isation & agrave; haute pression ont des structures unilamellaires et multilamellaires combin & eacute;es. Par rapport & agrave; la solution de k & eacute;ratine, la suspension de KL a am & eacute;lior & eacute; de mani & egrave;re significative la perm & eacute;ation de la k & eacute;ratine dans le cortex pendant une incubation de 24 heures. En outre, les cheveux expos & eacute;s aux UV pendant 24 et 48 heures se sont mieux r & eacute;tablis lorsqu'ils ont & eacute;t & eacute; incub & eacute;s avec des liposomes de k & eacute;ratine pendant 24 heures, comme le montre l'observation d'une surface de cheveux plus lisse en microscopie & eacute;lectronique. Nous avons observ & eacute; que le traitement par liposomes de k & eacute;ratine r & eacute;duisait de mani & egrave;re significative la d & eacute;naturation des prot & eacute;ines et la peroxydation des lipides dans les cheveux photo-endommag & eacute;s.ConclusionNous pr & eacute;voyons que l'administration de k & eacute;ratine assist & eacute;e par liposomes cationiques peut constituer une m & eacute;thode efficace pour restaurer les cheveux photo-endommag & eacute;s, tant sur le plan physique que sur le plan chimique.

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